Yorkshire Pub Walks: Ales & Dales Trail
- Classic English hill walking with ample opportunities for pub stops in friendly Yorkshire villages
- Stay in some of the best rustic country inns and manor houses that the Dales have to offer
- Walk various sections of England's best national trails (including the C2C & Pennine Way)
- Enjoy a pint of real ale at the remote Tan Hill Inn, the highest pub in mainland UK
- Grassington, the fabulous village where parts of "All Creatures Great and Small" was filmed
Gallery
Itinerary
Day 1 Arrive in GrassingtonAfter arriving in Grassington, enjoy a wander around the iconic market town that's brimming with charm, history and character. For those arriving a little earlier in the day or those looking for an evening walk, we also provide an optional 8-mile loop walk (that can be shortened) around the Wharfedale region, taking you to the small villages of Linton and Burnsall - both of which have excellent village pubs!
The Devonshire is a classic Yorkshire Inn that has all the charm and character that you would expect from a pub sitting in the middle of Grassington. The Hotel was actually used in the 2020 series of All Creatures Great and Small, a remake of the beloved tv show based upon the “James Herriott” books following a Scottish vet on his move to a sleepy Dales village; Darrowby.
The Black Horse Hotel was extended in 1990 and now boasts 15 modern en-suite bedrooms, each with their own individuality. Enjoy modern facilities in rooms that were here before Dickens was a boy.
On the first day of walking, you walk stage 2 of the Dales Way where you head up to Coniston Pie with stunning views over the pretty farmland, laid out like a patchwork quilt around you. The first pub stop (or lunch) opportunity would be in Kettlewell as you pass through, with another potential option in Starbotton. Expect some gentle woodland walking, that follows a riverside until you reach Buckden.
Ascent/Descent: 160m/130m
Unfortunately, the White Lion Inn in Cray is no longer operating in 2024 so bookings will operate via Buckden.
The Buck Inn has 6 en suite rooms set in a stunning Georgian coaching inn, in the heart of the village of Buckden, amongst the stunning scenery of Upper Wharfedale. The bar area has been decorated in a more contemporary style, whilst exposing and maintaining many of the original features, and has been opened out to form one continuous room, sub-divided into several distinct areas. This offers our guests the options of cosy dining and drinking in the bar area, a comfy seating area for pre or post-meal drinks (or for weary walkers who just need somewhere comfy to rest their legs after a hard walk!) or a more spacious dining experience throughout the rest of the pub.
After enjoying a hearty breakfast, today sees you tackle a section of the Lady Annes Way where you gradually climb out of Buckden/Cray and head towards the lovely village of Askrigg, famed for being a location where the old and new version of "All Creatures Great and Small" was filmed. There is also an opportunity in Askrigg to visit Yorkshire Dales Brewery company's brewery to taste their fantastic real ale first-hand. (If your legs are feeling it today then you could have a bite to eat in the local pub and then jump on a bus to Hawes.)
Leaving Askrigg you walk through lush fields high above the and onward to Hawes. This charming Yorkshire town is the highest market town in England and a lovely place to stop for the evening. If you have time, it is also well worth visiting Wensleydale Creamery, home to the extremely tasty Wensleydale Cheese.
Ascent/Descent: 442m/440m
The White Hart Inn, Hawes is a 16th-century former coaching inn, situated in the ancient market town of Hawes in Upper Wensleydale. Expect delicious food, real ales on tap, and comfortable guest rooms.
The 300-year old ‘quirky’ Herriot building on the main cobbled street that runs through Hawes comprises of Herriot’s Guest House, Herriot’s Kitchen and The Herriot Gallery, an ideal location to browse local artwork, enjoy fresh home-made produce, and relax and become guests of Glenn & Liz. They offer six en-suite bedrooms, all of which benefit from the expected home comforts. All of their rooms have been refurbished over the last few winters and have new bathrooms throughout.
Check-in time is strictly between 4 & 7 pm & Breakfast is served in their gallery dining area between 8.15 and 9 am.
An included transfer this morning takes you to your accommodation in Keld where you can drop your bags and then start walking along a section of the Pennine way that sees you ascend to the highest Pub in the UK. The Tan Hill Inn sits isolated at 528m (1730ft) above sea level... yet is usually always busy with celebratory walkers and cyclists alike who have managed to make their way up to it.
The Inn itself dates back to the 17th century and you can see this in its simple charm with its exposed beams, wood-burning fireplace and welcoming atmosphere. Ensure you grab a pint of local ale, a spot of lunch, then head back to Keld via Ravenseat farm, the home of the Yorkshire Shepherdess, Amanda Owen, her husband and her 9 kids. She has recently been seen on British Television's "Our Yorkshire Farm" and featured on Ben Fogle's - lives in the wild tv series. At certain times of the year, they offer al-fresco cream teas to walkers passing by!
Ascent/Descent: 355m/375m
A warm welcome awaits you at Keld Lodge. This former shooting lodge is now a comfortable hotel and restaurant. You can enjoy the amazing views from the conservatory dining room, lounge, and many of the bedrooms. They place an emphasis on doing the simple things well.
Butt House pride themselves on warmly welcoming walkers after a long day's trekking. They provide drying and laundry facilities, packed lunches, home cooked food, along with a fully licensed bar. All rooms have TVs, hairdryers, tea & coffee making facilities and fabulous views of the area. On the ground floor there is a drying area for boots and coats, a lounge with open fire, dining room, and bar/reception area, where, in the height of the season, you can enjoy a pint of Black Sheep Ale, available on tap.
Frith Lodge is a 300-year-old Swaledale farmhouse which has been lovingly restored and refurbished. They have 3 doubles and 2 twin bedrooms which are all en-suite, have tea and coffee making facilities include fresh milk and homemade biscuits and each bedroom has FreeSat TV, hairdryer, welcome guide and breathtaking views from every window. Their guest lounge has stunning views and is the perfect place to rest and relax after a day walking. Check-in time is 15:30
You have a choice of two routes today. you can take the scenic low route via the wonderful Swaledale Valley, which mostly follows the River all the way to Reeth, passing Gunnerside with its lovely tearooms and pubs.
Alternatively, you can take the official C2C path known as the high route along an old mining track, taking you onto Melbecks Moor, a lovely heather-clad landscape before dropping down past old ruined mining buildings to follow riverside paths into Reeth. If you opt for this route you will not have any options for pub stops along the way.
- Low-Level Route: 12m/19km, Ascent 330m, Descent 460m
- High-Level Route: 11m/18km, Ascent 530m, Descent 650m
The charming late Georgian country house has been tastefully upgraded in a traditional style offering individually decorated rooms that complement the character of the country home. It has been operating for over 40 years. The hotel stands majestically on Reeth’s idyllic green, overlooking exceptional views across the moors of Swaledale and Fremington Edge - some of the most breathtaking of the Yorkshire Dales. It is a beautiful location to relax and unwind. We have a private car park at the rear of the hotel for your convenience.
The owners extend a warm welcome, and are wholly dedicated to providing a high level of service with a distinctly personal edge. Their 5 bedrooms are all extensively equipped and benefit from breath-taking, south-facing views of the expansive Swaledale countryside.
Head back into Wensleydale on your penultimate walking day, passing through vibrant hay meadows before climbing gently to the lovely open heather moorlands of Apedale. Dropdown through lush fields and pass the ruins of the medieval Castle Bolton before arriving at the wonderful Aysgarth Falls via a cracking pub in Carperby. Aysgarth falls, is a series of three eye-catching waterfalls on the River Ure and is worth spending some time at before heading to your overnight accommodation, enjoying another night in Yorkshire's idyll and country pubs.
Ascent/Descent: 520m/515m
A cosy country hotel with where the team will give you a warm welcome. They have a traditional pub bar and a restaurant serving quality, locally sourced and reasonably priced food.
A family run B&B offering lovely guest rooms with large comfy beds, fluffy towels and luxury surprise treats! Enjoy a satisfying home-cooked breakfast made from locally sourced produce and amazing views of the surrounding countryside.
Stow House is a boutique bed and breakfast set in the heart of Aysgarth. The bedrooms are dreamily comfortable and the bathrooms wonderfully indulgent. In the morning enjoy delicious local sausages, bacon and eggs, salmon which has been cured in Bedale (a mere 20 minutes away) and orange juice that's freshly-squeezed in our kitchen every morning.
You have a choice of two walks for your final day of walking - both are equally challenging. The first and recommended option follows Walden Road that passes just below the summit of Buckden Pike into Starbotton. Buckden Pike is famed for the astonishing story during World War 2 when Polish airmen crash-landed and one survivor managed to walk to Cray to signal help. Just down from the summit of Buckden Pike there is a small memorial to them that you can visit. Alternatively, you can opt to take Mark Reid's popular Inn Way route that sees you climb over the Fleensop moor and return to Kettlewell via the Coverdale valley.
At the end of your walk have a celebratory pint in Kettlewell before getting an included taxi to overnight in Grassington.
- Buckden Pike Route: 12.5m/20km, Ascent 590m, Descent 595m
- Mark Reid's Inn Way Route: 15m/25km, Ascent 580m, Descent 585m
The Black Horse Hotel was extended in 1990 and now boasts 15 modern en-suite bedrooms, each with their own individuality. Enjoy modern facilities in rooms that were here before Dickens was a boy.
The Devonshire is a classic Yorkshire Inn that has all the charm and character that you would expect from a pub sitting in the middle of Grassington. The Hotel was actually used in the 2020 series of All Creatures Great and Small, a remake of the beloved tv show based upon the “James Herriott” books following a Scottish vet on his move to a sleepy Dales village; Darrowby.
The Racehorses Hotel is an independently run 18th Century country inn with beautiful views of either the river Wharfe or surrounding hills. The hotel has recently been extensively refurbished, all bedrooms now fully refurbished and have luxurious en-suite facilities, each with colour television and tea and coffee making facilities. There are two comfortable bar rooms and dining areas, both with real fires.
After enjoying one last hearty Yorkshire breakfast, say goodbye to Grassington and proceed with your onward travel plans.
This trip has a carbon score of 5kg per person per night, meaning it’s one of our best trips! For comparison, a carbon count of 5kg is equivalent to 1 Neapolitan margherita pizza. Here at Macs, we pride ourselves on being a responsible travel company and continue to adopt, develop and innovate ways to positively impact the environment. Find out more information on how we've carbon counted our trips.
Other Information
Is it for me?We have crafted the “Ales and Dales Trail” in such a way that you will walk the famed sweeping rural landscapes and remote moors of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, whilst also taking you through its many picture-postcard stone-built villages. This gives you ample opportunities to visit a rustic country pub or a cosy tearoom for a hearty lunch, dinner or some "light" refreshments! This moderate-graded self-guided walking tour is perfect for those looking for classic English hill walking with plenty of chances along the way to taste its culinary delights!
Classic Routes | If you’re the active, outdoorsy type, who’s interested in taking on the great routes of the world or looking for a challenge, then our Classic Routes are for you. We’re talking the West Highland Way, Tour Du Mont Blanc and the Passau to Vienna Danube Cycle Path, to name but a few!
Inn to Inn Walking | Walk from place-to-place changing accommodations each night. Generally staying in B&Bs, inns, and guesthouses.
Solo Travellers
Expect a mixture of paths, tracks, and minor roads. Some of the paths can become very muddy and boggy when rain falls, often making progress slower than normal. The Ales and Dales trail is not specifically waymarked but you are walking through sections of England’s national trail networks and you regularly pass through small villages and towns – The paths are remote in sections but are walked regularly by other hikers and locals, with a few short sections being on indistinct paths.
The Ales and Dales trail is a classic inn-to-inn hill walking tour at heart; most of the walks on tour are graded moderate (therefore, the tour collectively is graded as moderate); however, there are a couple of days that are verging on moderate-to-strenuous (please do not underestimate the difficulty of these days). For those that would rather spend some more time in the pubs or tea rooms or those simply looking for a more leisurely day, there are options to either shorten the walks or take public transport on most days - the exception to this is the Aysgarth to Kettlewell routes, there are no shortcuts or public transport on offer. (all shortcuts and public transport options are detailed in our information pack and smartphone app). Below is a breakdown of each day and their approximate distance alongside the ascents and descents.
Routes | Distance (km/miles) | Ascent(metres) | Descent(metres) |
Grassington to Buckden | 17.1 km / 10.6 miles | 175 | 128 |
Buckden to Hawes | 26 km / 16.1 miles | 441 | 425 |
Keld Loop walk Via Tan Hill Inn | 16.6 km / 10.3 miles | 353 | 374 |
Keld to Reeth (Low Route) | 19.2 km / 11.9 miles | 328 | 461 |
Keld to Reeth (High Route) | 17.7 km / 11 miles | 529 | 649 |
Reeth to Aysgarth | 21.7 km / 13.5 miles | 522 | 513 |
Aysgarth to Kettlewell - via Buckden Pike Memorial | 20.3 km / 12.6 miles | 592 | 597 |
Aysgarth to Kettlewell - via Inn Way | 24.8 km / 15.4 miles | 578 | 582 |
You will stay in a mixture of carefully chosen country inns, manor/guest houses, and/or small hotels. In some cases, due to availability, you may stay in some smaller B&Bs. Sadly the popular White Lion Inn, in Cray is changing hands in 2024 and we do not know if it will be open next year.
Single Rooms & Solo Walkers
If you require single rooms we would be happy to accommodate you although there is a single room supplement payable, This supplement can be very expensive for solo/single rooms due to the area and nature of the accommodations used on this tour. We welcome solo walkers on this trip although you should, of course, take extra care in the outdoors when walking solo.
Meals
Breakfast is included each morning while lunch and dinner are not included so you are free to choose from the available options. The Ales and Dales trail has many options for lunch stops in local tea rooms or pubs that are dotted along the way - details of these are included in your route notes. Dinner is available either at your accommodation or nearby pubs and restaurants. Please be aware that we recommended booking any evening meals well in advance of the day your are due to visit
Additional Nights
You may wish to take some extra nights along the route, either to rest or for those with plenty of energy to explore some of the other walking opportunities nearby. We recommend extra nights at:
- Grassington - Plenty to do in this bustling market town - well worth an extra night at the start or end of your trip.
Other Alternatives:
- Malham - Perfect for those looking for some extra nights at the start or end of your trip. Malham is well worth a visit, to walk around the iconic Malham Cove where Harry Potter was filmed. Later on in the evening, you can then relax and dine at one of its many lively pubs or restaurants. Malham is not too far from Grassington and we could arrange for this to be included in your tour as a walking day. We include both walks on our Escape to the Yorkshire Dales tour - so you can follow these on our Macs Adventure app. For more information, talk to your adventure specialist.
- Hawes - For a mid-tour stop - Hawes is a good option. It is a pretty market town with plenty of easy-going walking trails. It's also home to the Wensleydale Creamery (famous for Wensleydale cheese!). Please talk to your adventure specialist to book an extra night here.
Using the Macs Adventure Smartphone App is mandatory for this tour. Whilst the Ales and Dales is not an official waymarked path, it does follow sections of many national trails including the Dales Way, Pennine Way, Coast to Coast as well as some other known trails such as the Lady Anne Way, Mark Reid's the Inn Way and the Herriot Way. There are some sections where the path underfoot may become indistinct, but we provide comprehensive route notes, maps and GPX tracks through our smartphone app, so you shouldn’t have any problem finding your way.
- 7 Nights in traditional Yorkshire inn's, country manor houses and small boutique hotels
- 7 Breakfasts
- Daily baggage transfers
- Transfers as per your itinerary
- Access to maps, GPX tracks and daily route information with the Macs Adventure smartphone navigation app
- All your trip documents provided digitally through your online Macs “My Account”
- 24/7 Emergency telephone support from our UK office
- Travel to/from Grassington
- Dinners and lunches
- Drinks and snacks
- Personal equipment
- Travel insurance
- Additional nights before or after the holiday
- Transfers to/from Skipton train station to your Grassington accommodation
The best time to walk is from April through to the end of September. It's also possible to walk in the shoulder months of March and October, however, the weather can be a nuisance and the paths can become extremely boggy due to increased rainfall and shorter daylight hours. Please note that there may also be a baggage transfer supplement as it is out of season for our local supplier.
By Rail - The nearest train station to Grassington is Skipton. Trains run from London to Skipton (via Leeds) and take approx 4.5-hours or it is also possible to travel from Manchester (3.5 hours). From Skipton, there is a regular local bus service to Grassington that takes around 30 mins. Alternatively for a supplement, we can arrange a taxi transfer for you, from Skipton train station to your accommodation in Grassington. (Costs are approximately £30 one way for 1-4 passengers.
By Car - It is a 4 hour drive from London to Grassington or a 1.5 hour drive from Manchester. The Yorkshire Dales is well linked to all major motorways and road networks. Please let us know if you do plan to drive as we will attempt to arrange parking space for you (please note that this is at the discretion of the hotel and can't be guaranteed).
By Air - The closest airports are Leeds Bradford or Manchester. From either of these airports, you can take the train via Leeds to Skipton. From Skipton, there is a regular local bus service to Grassington that takes around 30 mins. Alternatively for a supplement, we can arrange a taxi transfer for you, from Skipton train station to your accommodation in Grassington. (Costs are approximately £30 one way for 1-4 passengers). For those coming from overseas, you are likely arriving via one of the many London Airports, from here you can catch a train to Skipton as detailed in the "By Rail" section above.
For more information on train times and schedules please visit the Traveline or National Rail websites.
Your bags will be transferred from your accommodation as per your itinerary and moved onto your next overnight accommodation.
At Macs Adventure we work in partnership with many luggage transfer providers who set a limit on how many bags/suitcases they will transfer per person, and also the weight of the bag/suitcase. Ninety-nine per cent of the time they will only transfer one bag per person, but the allowed weight ranges from anything between 15 and 20kg per bag, depending on the tour you are taking. We do not have control over the limits that these providers set. Therefore, it is very important that you read the luggage information specific to your tour before departure. If you do not adhere to these limits there is a great possibility that you will be charged locally both for extra bags or if they are too heavy. This limitation can be a challenge, especially as airlines generally have limits that are higher. However, our luggage providers have reasons for these limits (usually due to the Health and Safety of their employees) which we must respect.
Please be prepared by packing all necessary items, for example, proper rain gear (jacket and pants), sun hat, sunscreen. Your information pack has a detailed equipment list which includes standard walking gear such as good walking boots or shoes, warm and waterproof clothes for the cooler months and lightweight clothing for summer, and a day pack.
Ales and Dales in the Press
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Featured in the Telegraph's Top 10 Amazing UK Walking Holidays for 2021: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/walking-holidays/great-british-getaways-10-amazing-uk-walking-holidays-2021/
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Featured in the Daily Mail for UK walking holidays that stay in historic inns: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/escape/article-9383815/The-best-walking-holidays-UK-promise-grand-country-house-hotels-historic-inns.html
Online Documents
On this tour, all your detailed tour information will be digitally delivered and the trail will be followed using our Smartphone App. You will have access to this documentation and how to use the Macs App via “My Account” on our website.
It is a requirement of booking this tour with Macs Adventure that you have suitable travel insurance which covers you for the activity and emergency evacuation and hospital care.
If you are looking to bookend your trip with an extra night at the start or end of your trip then we recommend a day or two in the lovely village of Malham. Malham is not too far from Grassington and is home to the iconic and stunning Malham Cove - we offer some loop walks around it on the Macs Adventure Smartphone App. If you are interested in booking this then please let your adventure specialist know - be aware that some accommodations have 2x night minimum stays at the weekends.
Alternatively, if your looking for a rest day on the trip then the market town of Hawes is the ideal choice - It's a pretty little town with plenty to see and do, including a lively market on a Tuesday. It is also home to the famous Wensleydale Creamery (Wensleydale Cheese).
We cannot guarantee that pubs will always be open when you pass - it's not possible for us to keep track of 50+ pubs with varying schedules that can be seasonal and change on a month-to-month basis. For example, some pubs may only open on certain days of the week and only for a couple of hours a day. Furthermore, pubs in Yorkshire (especially those in small villages or hamlets) are known to close if they are especially quiet in the afternoons or late in the evening - To avoid disappointment, we always recommend calling ahead the day before or the morning to let them know you plan to visit in the afternoon or to simply check they will be open.
We provide all the pub locations and contact details for you on the Macs App and your information pack.
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At Macs, we don’t do tour buses, groups, or guides. Instead, we give you the freedom and confidence to have your own self-guided walking or cycling adventure.
This is active travel led by you.
You choose your departure date and who you travel with, we do the rest.
We sort accommodation and luggage transfers and provide your route in an easy-to-use app.
We give you everything you need to travel independently but we're here 24/7 if you need us.
Getting from A to B under your own steam is intensely rewarding. With Macs, you'll see the world, and yourself, differently.